Hot Summer Rose

I love the name of this fabric "Hot summer Roses". I picked it up from Tessuti last year. I think they have sold out now. It is a cotton/spandex mix which is machine washable... bonus! I have a tendency to buy fabrics that need dry cleaning and tend not to wear them as I can't be bothered with the cleaning process.

I had pinned a photo to my pinterest board last year thinking I would make the strapless top and skinny pants to match. I decided on a mini skirt instead as I didn't have quite enough fabric.  I used Burda pattern 01/2012 leather bustier #124 for the bodice and drafted my own peplum. For the skirt I used Burda Magazine 7/2012 120 skirt which I also made up in the RTW designer knock off competition. I really love this skirt pattern. It has a really high waist and curved darts which start at the side seam right at waist level. It's a really good fit.

I boned and lined the bodice which I've never done before. I use a herringbone stitch to sew the boning tape in place and hand stitched the lining to the bodice. I also attached a grosgrain ribbon to the upper bodice to help with the fit. I picked up this technique from Gertie's sew retro bombshell dress lesson which was a really handy tip. I haven't sewn the bombshell dress yet but I have used a few techniques from this lesson and have found it really easy to follow.  Gertie's not your stereotypical sewing teacher which I love.

I have a very small bust so I had to take it in quite a bit. I adjusted it at the seam lines by shaving off about 1 cm. I also shortened the bodice.

I had a question on my last dress on how I get the bodice to fit so well on my small frame. Basically, I fit and fit and fit. I will fit to the dress form and pin where I see any bagginess at all. I then sew and re fit. If it needs adjusting still, I will undo and redo. I am not happy until the fit is good.

I could not live without my dress form. If you don't have one, get one. I picked mine up form EBay for fifty bucks and its been worth every cent. Also boning does wonders for your bust! The bodice stays up really well. 

I lined the skirt as I didn't think the fabric was firm enough. The spandex in it is probably not the best choice for a bustier but it turned out OK. The fit feels great although I think the boning is pushing into the waistline a bit too much. I may have to unpick and shave off a few mm's . I'll wear it tonight to my friends house for dinner and see how comfy it is.

I have loved sewing this outfit. It came together really well and I love the mix of machine and couture techniques.

I highly recommend both of the patterns.

Construction of Bodice

Burda Magazine 7/2012 120 skirt 

01/2012 leather bustier #124